This food here is really good. I mean seriously, delicious. Although Israel bulldozed all of the olive trees (as well as houses) within the “buffer zone” — 300 meters from the border, Palestinians in Gaza have still found ingenious ways to survive, like planting wheat close to the buffer zone where trees once grew. Because of Israel’s blockade, if its not grown here, it likely came from Egypt through the tunnels. The first time I came to Gaza, I thought everyone was trying to cheat me. Why was a bottle of water or a can of Coke so much more expensive than the West Bank or in Israel? The shelves were bare and I survived largely off power bars. And then I realized that was the cost of living in Gaza: it had all come through tunnels.
A family seven generously invited me to eat lunch with them today and then took me around the remains of their farmland. Above is a photo of the delicious fish maclube we ate, as well as the most interesting iteration of a shwarma sandwich I’ve had to date. The maclube, which means “upside down” in Arabic, is a dish of rice with other vegetables and usually chicken. The shwarma was layered into a wheat flatbread, stuffed with extra fil fil (chili) per my request, wrapped like a burrito, flattened on pan and then sliced into hand-sized pieces. That’s salsa on the side, though I’m pretty sure the Palestinians have a different name for it.